Rumal literally means "Oily Handkerchief".The craft has its origin in Andhra Pradesh and dates back to early 19th Century. though it started in Chirala in Andhra Pradesh, India. its currently parcticed by a few weavers in Puttapaka village of Nalgonda District.
The rectangular telia cloths were used as a veil/scarves by women and multipurpose cloth by men (Turban, Lungi, Shoulder Cloth). They were also expoerted to Asia, Afric a and other Gulf countries.
The Technique was later adapted to create and dupattas. The Telia Rumal is unambiguously, a form of ikkat.
Literally: "oiled Square or handkerchiefs". The fabri is soaked in a mixture of oild and castor ash for a couple of weeks.
Then the parts to be lerft in the base colour (usually white) are tied. The fabrice is dipped in one colour in a natural dye. Then the process is repeated, as in all tie-dyed fabrics till the pattern emerges. Telia rumal is a very intricate and laborious double ikkat weave.
As the name cuggests the yarn is treated with oil The products used for the treatment of the yarn are sheep cung castor pod ashes and oil. The treated yarn which is used for the warp (length) and weft (width) is tied and dyed in accordance with a predetermined geometrical design.
Each of the warp and weft threads are individually positioned on the loom prior to weaving hence it's crucial for the weaver to ensure perfection.
Only 3 colors are traditionally used - Red Black and white in Geometrical designs.
Weaving a telia rumal needs a great amount of practice and perfection for the warp and weft to be meticulously converted to an artistic design.
The number of motifs makes it more complex and difficult to weave. These are square ikat cloths used as hearscarves by muslim men.
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